New Cousins ​​BBQ restaurant in Fort Worth offers steaks, bar


A Cousins ​​BBQ combo platter with brisket, ribs, two kinds of sausage, and pork with mustard sauce.

Photo to hand out

Before Everman, Rendon and Kennedale became the “barbecue triangle”, Cousins ​​BBQ served South Fort Worth’s favorite brisket.

It’s still a favorite after 39 years, and now the busiest Cousins ​​had a new Hill Country look to welcome diners to 5125 Bryant Irvin Road.

When Cousins ​​opened in 1983, it rocked the Fort Worth barbecue world. The eternal brewery debate between Angelo’s and Sammie’s has become a three-way debate. (Railhead Smokehouse followed in 1986.)

Today, Cousins ​​is an old-school barbecue restaurant playing a new game.

A Cousins ​​BBQ combo platter with brisket, ribs, two kinds of sausage, and pork with mustard sauce. Photo to hand out

The chest is prime. The pork is Duroc. The decor at the Bryant Irvin Road location is sprawling and airy, though the original Cousins ​​at 6262 McCart Ave. be unchanged.

Unlike other old-school restaurants, the new Cousins ​​even serves steaks — a smoked aged ribeye ($32) or a smoked New York strip ($28), with chipotle Dr Pepper barbecue sauce.

This means Cousins ​​is now an alternative to steakhouse chains such as Saltgrass, in addition to serving eight barbecue meats for $12.75 to $17 as a platter with sides, or a la carte $16 to $26 per pound.

The Bryant Irvin Road location of Cousins ​​BBQ near Interstate 20 has been renovated. kennedy bud [email protected]

In the now heralded world of Fort Worth barbecue, Cousins ​​sits somewhere between Railhead and Heim, still serving up the recipes that brought founder Calvin “Boots” Payne’s brisket to the White House and helping kickstart what is now Disneyland Paris.

The remodel transformed the Bryant Irvin Road location from an old-fashioned cafeteria-style service to an order counter offering appetizers such as smoked or fried wings, smoked jalapenos stuffed brisket or chopped breast nachos.

The busy take-out counter also offers a take-out box with smoked pimiento cheese, serrano queso, salsa and guacamole.

Cousins ​​BBQ offers a take-out crate with smoked pimiento cheese, serrano queso, salsa, and guacamole. kennedy bud [email protected]

Cousins ​​still rank high on social media for the basics: sliced ​​and ground beef brisket, pulled pork and the choice of 12 sides led by the popular broccoli and rice casserole.

An expanded bar at the Bryant Irvin Road location now also offers whiskey lemonade and a wide selection of specialty cocktails – something unavailable at most barbecue joints.

“People come here and see they can get the same thing at Cousins ​​as they can get at other restaurants, and with more choices,” sales manager Brandon Smith said.

The Cousins ​​BBQ on Bryant Irvin Road has been remodeled in a Hill Country style. Photo to hand out

Customers familiar with cousins ​​are now coming in and ordering more than just a plate, he said. For newcomers, there is something for everyone in a family or group.

The take-out counter is also a butcher shop selling aged steaks and take-out meats, ground beef and homemade sausages, including the breakfast sausage that Cousins ​​serves at its two DFW airport locations (terminal B).

If that’s all too much of a change, McCart’s location remains mostly true to how “Boots” Payne opened it after the former Paschal High School football star learned the trade under the tutelage of the famous 1960s presidential pitmaster, Walter Jetton.

Cousin’s is open every day except Sunday. The Bryant Irvin Road location is 1 mile west of Chisholm Trail Parkway or 1 mile south of Interstate 20; 817-346-3999,

This story was originally published July 6, 2022 5:45 a.m.

Columnist Bud Kennedy is a guy from Fort Worth who covered high school football at age 16 and went on to two Super Bowls, seven political conventions and 18 sessions of the Texas Legislative Assembly. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,800 “Eats Beat” columns about Texas restaurants, eateries and cuisine.

Dino S. Williams